I decided to eliminate a variable and took out the reducer. That improved things a bit, but there were still some problems. I was struggling to get the resolution down below 2 arc seconds even in the center of the field, and the corners still weren't identical.
I decided to see if my AP130 field flattener would remove enough of the field curvature to allow me to see what was really going on in the corners. Only problem was that the field flattener requires a ton of back focus, and I couldn't quite reach focus with it in place and all spacers removed. Oh, well.
I tried using the scope visually so I could do a star test. I hadn't really checked it visually with a high power eyepiece since early in the process. When I finally got a night of reasonably good seeing, it turned out the scope had quite a bit of spherical aberration--I'd estimate 1/4 to 1/3 wave--but I had successfully removed the astigmatism I had seen on my first few nights, and diffraction patterns were concentric. I did a bit of reading (Herr Rohr's website) and found that the spacing between primaries and secondaries may not be optimized to the design specification! In fact, I found that I could greatly reduce the spherical aberration by bringing the secondary a bit closer to the primary. FYI, this practice is explicitly discouraged in the instruction manual since it should be right from the factory, so you could easily be making things worse rather than better. Plus, if you aren't careful you can drop your secondary onto the primary since the secondary mounting is spring loaded. I managed to get my spherical aberration down to perhaps 1/6 wave or maybe even 1/8 wave. Obviously, I don't have an optical bench so these are my own estimates based on views of diffraction patterns at high power (330x). In any event, there was a noticeable improvement. There was an added benefit as well--I now had enough back focus that I could try out the field flattener again.
Still not there. Stars in the center of the field were now consistently around 2 arc seconds on nights of above average seeing, but the corners still varied. I started to look for a mechanical issue again... I found it two days ago. The mounting plate on my filter wheel covers a screw on one edge that is recessed in a countersunk hole. It turns out the countersink isn't quite deep enough, and the screw was slightly "cocking" the mounting plate. It was a very slight difference--no more than one or two tenths of a millimeter--but it was enough to keep the camera from being square to the optical train. I had never noticed an issue when using my 5" refractor, but at these longer focal lengths/resolutions the tolerances get ridiculously small.
So I tried it out again last night. With the focal reducer (since that gives optimal spatial resolution). The seeing was quite good--I'd say 7/10. Brighter stars still showed some flickering, but nothing too serious. The 'e' and 'f' stars were easily visible in the Trapezium at roughly 100x.
Still no joy. In one corner, stars looked almost like doubles--serious astigmatism. I took out the focal reducer and put in the field flattener. Bingo! Finally, everything looked perfect. I had my first really successful night (meaning higher resolution than I could have gotten out of my refractor--I had already managed a couple of images I liked, but they weren't quite showing the resolution I thought the scope was capable of). |